While Cochabamba gears up for San Juan festivities, the surrounding towns offer equally vibrant experiences steeped in tradition, culture, and nature. Pasorapa, San Isidro, and Totora each provide unique escapes from the urban bustle, perfect for those seeking a distinctive way to celebrate.
Pasorapa: The charming town of Pasorapa explodes with activity from June 23rd to 26th. Visitors can immerse themselves in a diverse range of events, including the Livestock, Handicraft, and Sports Fair in Pucarillo, and the Ambrosia Fair and Traditions in Tabacal. These fairs not only showcase the town’s cultural heritage but also serve as a vital economic engine.
The evening of June 23rd holds special significance with a Mass and Vespers honoring Saint John the Baptist. Joy and devotion fill the air, accompanied by music and the light of bonfires traditionally fueled by “khanchanas” – dry logs from the endemic “ulala” cactus. Festivities continue on June 24th with processions, masses, and the “taurocatapsia” (non-bullfighting) demonstrating the town’s deep spirituality and rich traditions. Visitors can indulge in the local cuisine at the Social House, experiencing firsthand Pasorapa’s renowned hospitality.
San Isidro: Nestled within the Municipal Ecotourism Park San Isidro (PEMSI) in Sacaba, San Isidro offers a San Juan celebration unlike any other. Here, visitors can connect with nature by camping in designated areas and lighting environmentally-friendly bonfires under the watchful eye of park rangers like Gregorio Choque Checa, who emphasizes the importance of ecological balance.
June 23rd comes alive in San Isidro with activities like trekking, boating, and savoring traditional dishes from Colomi, such as trout and kingfish. Witnessing families decorate their livestock and participate in harvest ceremonies provides a glimpse into the town’s ancestral customs that connect them to the natural world. San Isidro caters to tourists with camping areas, restaurants, and boat rides, making it easily accessible from Cochabamba by public transport (route 222 from Sacaba) or private vehicle.
Totora: Located 140 kilometers from Cochabamba, celebrates San Juan with a unique blend of tradition and civic events, coinciding with its 148th anniversary. The festivities on June 23rd and 24th offer a diverse program, including a Te Deum mass, parades, a musical retreat, and a serenade featuring the renowned Argentine band Yerba Brava.
The night of San Juan in Totora is renowned for its spectacular bonfires. The municipality ignites a large bonfire in the central plaza, accompanied by numerous smaller pyres, creating a vibrant and communal atmosphere. Visitors can tantalize their taste buds with Totora’s rich culinary offerings, including chicharrón, charque, and Totorean empanadas, while adventurous souls can partake in extreme sports activities.
Maintaining Tradition While Protecting the Environment: Across these towns, the cultural significance of bonfires remains. In San Isidro, park rangers ensure environmentally conscious practices, while Totora’s authorities oversee the central bonfire. Pasorapa residents, on the other hand, have adopted the practice of having a single bonfire to minimize pollution.
