A Bolivian red has secured the coveted top spot in the ranking for Bolivia in the Descorchados Guide 2024. Negra Criolla, a 2021 vintage from Jardín Oculto winery in Tarija, received a score of 94 points, surpassing established wineries in Bolivia.
About Descorchados: In the late 1990s, Chilean journalist and critic Patricio Tapia launched Descorchados, a wine guide organized by variety, style, terroir, and incorporating personal opinion; it now covers countries like Argentina, Uruguay, Brazil, Peru, and Bolivia.
A Commitment to Heritage Grapes: This recognition is a significant milestone for Jardín Oculto. Co-founder María José Granier explains their mission: “We aim to elevate the status of old vineyards planted with criolla grapes, traditionally grown intertwined with trees.” Since 2019, the small winery has championed these heritage varieties of the Valle de los Cintis.
Combining Tradition and Innovation: Jardín Oculto blends artisanal viticulture with modern winemaking techniques. This approach highlights the potential of criolla grapes to produce exceptional quality wines. While Jardin Oculto’s annual production is a modest 5,000 liters, the dedication of this winery is making waves on the global stage.
A Family Legacy and a Unique Terroir: María José, following in her family’s viticulture tradition, embraced the legacy and named their vineyard “Los Arbolitos”. This aptly describes their unique terroir – a hidden garden where vines flourish alongside fruit trees, olives, and even farm animals. Clayey soil nourishes the grapes, while the occasional flood adds another layer of complexity.
Where to Find and Enjoy Negra Criolla: Locally, Negra Criolla can be found in Tarija for around 100 bolivianos at select shops like Montecito, Los Altos del Marqués, and Belgrano mini-supermarket. This delicious wine pairs perfectly with traditional Bolivian dishes like spicy chicken or pork stew. As María José suggests, “it’s a spectacular match for saice.”
A Note on Bolivian Wine: Over 80% of Bolivian wine production comes from Tarija, a region situated at high altitudes often exceeding 1,800 meters. This elevation, combined with a rainy season concentrated during grape ripening, creates a distinct flavor profile for Bolivian wines. While many Bolivian consumers prefer sweeter styles and the high-end market is obsessed with Tannat, wineries like Jardín Oculto are pushing boundaries and earning recognition for their innovative approach with local varieties.